Part 2

A map of Alert Bay, including Broughton Archipelago, Knight Inlet, and Queen Charlotte Strait

Indian Villages


I throttled down the engine, lifted John up on the steering seat, and left the boat to drift idly under his care, while the rest of us unrolled the chart and tried to discover just where...
A few of the children and Capi aboard the Caprice

Northward to Seymour Inlet


The end of July, we anchored overnight just inside the western entrance of Wells Pass, in Kingcome Inlet. We wanted to make an early morning run up the open coast to Seymour Inlet. The entrance to...
Huge wooden beams in the shape of a longhouse held up by totems of two birdlike animals

Sunday Harbour


Next morning we headed south. Great heavy clouds hung low and white, covering the still-​sleeping hills and mountains like a downy comforter. Up we rose on the long swell, and then the smooth...
A carving of a bird with wings outstretched

Karlukwees Village


It was dusk before we dropped anchor in Karlukwees Bay. It had been slow work feeling our way through the kelp-​choked passages, and now it was too late to explore. Dimly above its shell beach...
A large, weathered sculpture of a face, partially covered by leaves

The Skull


It was John who found the skull, or rather the bone that led to the skull. He was playing on the beach over in the corner near the waterhole, underneath a great old fir tree that grows on the edge...
The interior of a building with large wooden masks and sculptures of birds

Mamalilaculla


It was far too windy to venture up Knight Inlet that day. After studying the chart we decided to put in the time by wandering through the maze of islands over towards Village Island. There is an...